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Thread: Pergo Flooring

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  1. #1 Default Pergo Flooring 
    Anyone here have it? If so how long has it been down, what kind of above normal abuse has it seen, and would you use it again.

    My living room which is an addition roughly 600 sq.ft. has carpet now but its shot. Due to the way the room was built real hardwood is not an option.

    The rest of the house has real oak hardwood flooring that is 40+ years old and is ready to be refinished again. I picked up a sample of the Pergo oak flooring from Lowes and it looks pretty close to the existing floors.

    Any thoughts

    Thanks
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  2. #2 Default  
    i have used it and variations of it a few times

    its good, its hard wearing, its easy to install, it does not look like wood, it looks similar to wood, it looks good, but dont expect to look at it and thinks its hardwood, but if you are looking for a fairly inexpensive flooring solution, laminate flooring is a great choice

    for residential use you will probably get at least 10 years before it starts showing wear
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  3. #3 Default  
    Alright that matches what i have been reading online. I know what your saying about the look and thats fine with me. For the cost if I get 10 years out of it ill be happy. Considering a good carpet and pad installed would cost as much if not more then the pergo and the pergo is something I can do myself in a weekend.
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  4. #4 Default  
    Go with engineering floor which is better and it real wood, but not solid wood.

    Is there a reason why your addition is impossible? Because of concrete? If so, there's ways around it as to putting 3/4" Plywood down.
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  5. #5 Default  
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    I've had laminate (Armstrong) floors downstairs since I moved in in 2004. They have held up very well.

    If I were doing it again today, I may be more tempted to go with one of the engineered hardwood products out there today. They weren't available at today's prices when I did my laminate.

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  6. #6 Default  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beematic View Post
    Go with engineering floor which is better and it real wood, but not solid wood.

    Is there a reason why your addition is impossible? Because of concrete? If so, there's ways around it as to putting 3/4" Plywood down.
    Bee, you install flooring, no?
    The disease runs deep, relapses often, not looking for a cure, just another sick bastard to share it with.
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  7. #7 Default  
    Quote Originally Posted by 55fanatic View Post
    Bee, you install flooring, no?
    do you re-finish also ?
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  8. #8 Default  
    I do everything that has to do with hardwood floor. LOL
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  9. #9 Default  
    Quote Originally Posted by Beematic View Post
    I do everything that has to do with hardwood floor. LOL
    good to know, i have a lot, some will need refinishing soon, patching etc, i'll pm you when i have figured out exactly what i need doing
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  10. #10 Default  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beematic View Post
    I do everything that has to do with hardwood floor. LOL
    I will keep you in mind if I wind up buying somewhere around here!
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  11. #11 Default  
    Quote Originally Posted by Beematic View Post
    Go with engineering floor which is better and it real wood, but not solid wood.

    Is there a reason why your addition is impossible? Because of concrete? If so, there's ways around it as to putting 3/4" Plywood down.
    The real reason for not going with real hardwood is the sub floor and transitions. To this day I have no idea why my father did the sub floor the way he did when he over enginered and built the rest of the room. The sub floor is 5/8 T&G plywood with 3/4 partical board over it. From a few trusted installers that I know they say you can do hard wood over partical but ply is better. Right now if I were to lay down another ply wood sub on top of whats there I would be a good inch if not higher then the tiled portion in the attached sunroom and the same at the slider out the back to a deck and and the same at the room entrance. Taking up the existing sub floor really isnt an option at this point in time. I understand and know there are work arounds for this but right now real harwood isnt in the budget. I have alot of home improvement projects planned for the next year.

    I already made my mind up considering I just scored 500 sq. ft. of the pergo i wanted in the right color for less then half the cost of retail. So if I get 5-10 years out of it before it wears or I get tired of it i wont be upset.
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  12. #12 Default  
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    A few have mentioned engineered hardwood. Does anyone have any direct experience with it? Does it feel and sound like real hardwood? Can you lay heating elements under it like you can hardwood?


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  13. #13 Default  
    it depeneds whether its a floating, glued or nailed floor, also depends if its individual boards or 'planks' where several boards are already attached to each other

    the most 'real' looking is individual boards, glued or nailed
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  14. #14 Default  
    Engineering floor is actually made with real wood on the top layer. Although it's only 1/8" thick depending on brand. Company said it CAN'T be sand but they can if you know what you're doing. I have done so many refinishing on Engineering floor.
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